DUE TO THE INTRODUCTION OF UNIVERSAL BEAM BULBS FOR IMPROVED BEAM CONTROL THERE HAVE BEEN UPGRADES TO SOME ITEM CODES.
We have received very positive email reports:
A. 1W NICELITE NL311 v 1.25W HALOGEN From a customer who purchased an NL311 (now upgraded to NL322) for his Cat Eye HL-500. He is very pleased and reports a "200% improvement" over the original bulb, which was an 11 lumen Halogen bulb. The HL-500 is a classic urban cycle headlight, with over 10 million sold.
B. 1W NICELITE NL311 v 1.7W KRYPTON And from a second customer, again with NL311 (now upgraded to NL322): "Thank you, I got the NL311 on Saturday morning and fitted it to my trusty 1970's Ever Ready Frontguard II (Earlier type than the Nightrider). Fantastic result. One of my fave rides is in total darkness and last night I went for a test run. My headlamp has tubular diffusers and central fresnel area, creating a 170° spread of ambient light with a "sweet spot" in the middle. The change from Krypton to your LED is just amazing. I don't like modern LED front lights, but the fusion of your bulb with an older style lamp, just works, perfectly. Thanks again."
C. 1W NICELITE v 6W HALOGEN "The push-fit LED is now happily working in a Busch & Muller Lumotec dynamo headlamp connected to a 6V battery on my wife's road bike. It's a visible improvement over the 6W halogen (one of yours, but old) that was in there previously, & there'll be no worry about the battery dying on a ride."
D. 1W NICELITE DYNAMO BULBS WITH XGEN2 "Over the last ten days I purchased front and rear cycle dynamo new LED bulbs. My dynamo [Sturmey Archer GH6 Dynohub] was made about 1946 and the output by today's standards wasn't great. After fitting the new LED bulbs I think they are competing with car lights. I highly recommend them. I should also like to thank Malcolm Crofts for his assistance during this purchase.You have my permission to use this letter for advertising if you wish. Regards Stan" N
E. 1W NICELITE NL311 v 2.4W HALOGE (NL311 NOW UPGRADED TO NL322)
I hope your email client will allow for many attached images, because I am sending a few....
The NL311 arrived a couple of days ago, but this evening has been my first opportunity to do some real comparison tests in my Cateye HL-1500 (Hyper Halogen). I should first mention that I was very impressed with the high-quality packaging job!
The HL-1500 had some negative comments in reviews because of the relative difficulty of replacing the 4 AA batteries. On the other hand, it must be said that the two halves of the battery compartment are secured with a robust screw (opened with a screwdriver or coin) into a substantial brass insert. Personally I think this arrangement is preferable to the more convenient but far less durable flimsy plastic clips used in many other lamps, and the 1500 has survived many potholes and much road vibration in addition to being accidentally dropped a few times.
However, anything which can reduce the frequency of battery changes is definitely desirable, and that is why I chose to investigate the NL311.
Externally, the NL311 is a drop-in replacement for the original halogen bulb. However, the optical geometry of the NL311 is significantly different from the filament of the halogen bulb, which results in a quite different - and less controlled - beam pattern. It remains to be seen how much of an irritant this will be to oncoming traffic; however it does also illuminate more of the "road" surface ahead and to the sides, which may not be such a bad thing.
The HL-1500 has two distinct power output levels selected by the switch. These are very noticeably different using the halogen bulb. Using the NL311, the two power output levels are still visible, but the difference is not as dramatic. The "low" output seems sufficiently bright that it may be acceptable in riding conditions where the "high" ouptut would previously have had to be used with the halogen bulb; if this proves to be the case, the LED bulb will result in even better battery life. I will have to do more empirical testing on this during my early-morning commutes.
Unfortunately my unsophisticated camera insisted on adjusting its exposure for each shot, so the photos (taken in my attic using a tripod) do not show the relative brightness of the bulbs; however the differences in beam pattern, spill and colour can clearly be seen. They are as follows:
009 NL311 with switch in LOW position, note how white the light is, but lots of side spill also
010 NL311 with switch in HIGH position, unfortunately does not really show the difference in output
011 Original Halogen bulb in LOW position, dim yellow light but a very tightly-focussed beam on a small patch of "road"
012 Original Halogen bulb in HIGH position, again tightly focussed (perhaps too much so?)
Overall I have to say I am very impressed with the clear white brightness of the NL311, and the extended battery life will be a great benefit, especially if I can leave the headlamp on the LOW position for more of my commute time. However, if oncoming cars start turning on their high-beam headlamps whenever they see me coming, I may have to rethink my conclusion!
I will be sure to keep you informed of any further findings. My commuter bike also has a second headlamp, permanently mounted, which I previously ran from an external sealed lead-acid battery pack for extended night rides, and I may want to investigate an LED replacement for that bulb also.
All the best;
Richard H (NL311 NOW UPGRADED TO NL322)
F. NICELITE NL311 (1W) v PHILIPS XENON HPX50 (2.8W) & HPX51 (3.3W)
Just to let you know that the LED arrived OK last Tuesday. The LED is excellent.
I have used it for a replacement on a rechargeable front light with a Xenon bulb (Philips HPX50) which I bought from Halfords a few years ago. It was a good light except for the fact that the fitted bulb only had a quoted life of around 20 hours, and they had already gone out of production. Fortunately I did manage to obtain a replacement xenon bulb (HPX51) from an obscure source on the web but I have been looking for a suitable pre-focussed LED ever since. The NL311 fits the bill nicely.
Deborah (NL311 NOW UPGRADED TO NL322)
G. NICELITE NL432, NL437R, XGEN5
Hello. Just a quick note to say how very pleased I am with the bulbs and regulator I bought from you. They are better than awesome. Please thank all your team for me. Many thanks Rod.
H. NICELITE NL432, NL437R, XGEN2
Just a quick note to let you know that the two Nicelite LED Hub Generator Bicycle Lights (White Front and Red Rear) and the XGEN-2 Voltage Regulator arrived today in good condition. Thank you for your careful packing and prompt shipping. I'm very pleased with my purchase. They will make a great addition to my 1975 Raleigh Superbe rebuild project.
Thanks for the great customer service on this order. I'd been traveling and finally got around to installing these bulbs - they work very well. Nice and bright! Thanks.
J. Dear Malcolm,
Many thanks for the led bulbs and XGEN. The fitting was straightforward on my single wire system and they worked a treat with the dynamo - a huge improvement on my old halogen / tungsten bulbs. However, I hit a problem because I have an automatic Union battery backup (standlight) dating from the 1980s wired into the system. I realised the Led bulbs are polarity sensitive and would not work when the circuit switched automatically to battery. The solution was to take the lights apart and mangle them with a soldering iron to alter the polarity and it now works very well. I'm still a bit mystified as to why the led bulbs worked OK with just the dynamo because the wire from the dynamo to both bulbs was originally connected to the (negative?) bulb casing not the (positive?) soldered point. Anyway, not a problem. I mention this purely out of interest in case anyone else comes across this issue. (Probably nobody else has such an old system!) The bulbs are great and well worth the money. Thank you.
K. Hi, Thanks for your letter, I did get the parts yesterday, I have spent this morning replacing the rear light ithe the fitting you sent me, however I found out today ( for the first time) the front light also has a wedgebn ulb! I am an old retired Tool and Die Maker so I just used my knowledge to open up the front light bulb fitting to the minor ,diameter of the new led thread! I got it to 'screw' in with a minimum contact surface! Then I used an American glue called "Loctite' to glue it in there forever. Then I soldered wires to the bulb positive and the outside of the bulb! I had already cut the wires to give me easy gained access to both fitting (front&rear) so I re soldered all the wires together and 'low and behold it all worked! I have yet to go out this evening (after dark) and see how it works on a longer ride, bare in mind I have only manually rotated the wheel at this point. But I will say at this time the lights are so bright! No comparison to the old incandescent bulbs, Thanks again I am very happy with the way this has turned out. I will, add Malcolm that in September, in the space of twelve days
I totally dis-assembled this bike ,and emery clothed it all down to the bare metal, this bike is now worth at least $500 on ebay with the same paint as my 1995 Chevy Caprice, (a maroon metal flake) anyway Malcolm I am one of your most satisfied customers,Thanks, Bill
L. Hello. Just a quick note to say how very please I am with the bulbs and regulator I bought from you. They are better than awesome. Please thank all your team for me. Many thanks Rod.
M. CIRCUIT SL-01 WITH A STURMEY ARCHER DYNOHUB
I got one of your bulbs [NL432] here a month or so ago and decided to experiment further with SL-01 [standlight circuit], this time built with 1N5817 diodes.
As expected, your bulb runs under battery power at full brightness. I was surprised to see that it puts up with dying batteries very gracefully - the brightness isn't reduced by all that much. With almost dead batteries the flicker is very mild and can't be seen when you're going faster than jogging speed.
The only problem I have now is that the bulb might be too bright for my headlamp, an early 80s rectangle shape Sturmey Archer. It acts like a car's high beam and blinds everybody. Do you know if there's something more suitable for this bulb? At the moment I've blocked the top of the beam with tinfoil.
I figured out the cheapest and best circuit housing. Here in holland they still do smarties in round tubes with plastic caps, and they're big enough to fit 3 D-cells and a slightly cut down kinder egg toy capsule for the circuit. The smarties tube cap is drilled for screw terminals, and then the cardboard bit is waterproofed with electrical tape.
All things said I'm very impressed with your product. I think next payday I'm going to buy some more for my other bike.
N. BARDOIC NL312 CONVERSION
Bill (name withheld) here in Victoria, Australia.
Just wondering how your stocks of NL312 bulbs are looking. Thank you for sending those that arrived earlier, Their use in bardic lamps (combined with stained glass paint appropriately applied,) at the heritage railway where I spend some of my spare time, has done wonders for night workings & evening shunting.
The ongoing success of the LED converted bardic lamps is such that I've done some more trawling to get some more. I have secured six and will need to put these through the conversion process.
REFLECTALITE WOULD LIKE TO THANK CUSTOMERS FOR THEIR VERY INFORMATIVE NICELITE REVIEWS
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